Friday, 5 September 2008

End of another perfect day

Time to gather our things and head off for a gin and tonic.

The Sun

This is the sun before mid day. I thought it worth reminding people in Britain what it looks like. Temperatures rose to 48C in Marmaris this year. In Sogut th ebreeze an dthe sea moderated this to perfection.

The spring at 06.45




Just a few yards from the house the spring water that has supplied us for years in preference to the mains water has become no more than a trickle. With the mountains behind and the sea in front it is worth the early start to watch the sun come over the mountain, and miss the queue for water. Donkeys loaded with water bottles, ladies with three or four 5litre bottles tied in to a 'doluk' on their back form a constant line to the spring throughthe day. Many people are more affluent now, and drive to the springs at the bottom of the village, still gushiing strongly throughout the summer droughts, and fill their cars with bottles for themselves and their neighbours.

Here's Sabahat on a rare day off. Sabahat looks after the houses, the garden, the guests and us.

Wednesday, 25 June 2008

Shady place to sit by the sea



On scrolling through the photos for the main piece I found this photo of a new place to sit by the beach. In summer it's too hot to sit unshaded on the strip of shore, the rocks, or the square-hewn Hellenic blocks tumbled by ancient earthquakes.

first visit June 2008


Arrived with my father, 88, for short 5 day break. The Easyjet direct flight was excellent and seamless transfer to Marmaris. Because we arrived in Marmaris about midnight, we didn't travel on but stayed at the Candan hotel on the sea front. Next day we decided against hiring a car, as planned, and decided to continue to Sogut on the village bus.
The first bus back to the village is at 3 in the afternoon, so we enjoyed a leisurely morning exploring the little whitewashed streets and hidden houses around the castle. After lunch we stocked up with a few groceries in Tansas, and 20 litres of white paint at the hardware store before boarding the bus. There were plenty of old friends already aboard who welcomed us back - and ensured the driver dropped us off at our door. The corniche road over the mountains was as spectacular as ever, first climbing throughthe pine forest, then out on to the bare headlands, with sea views on all sides.

Sabahat came running up the road as the bus ground past and we dropped our bags at the top of the steps and went straight in to make a cup of tea to have with the freshly baked paklava we had bought at the baker.

The garden was stunning. My father cannot remember it so good as he hasn't been for a few years. The houses were spotless and freshly painted all over. Sabahat had really done a fantastic job.

The rest of the week we didn't regret not having the car. We even walked 5K to Bozburun for lunch one day, and back, although every car offered us a lift on the way - none on the way back unhappily! Going up and down to the beach didn't give Dad a problem at all and he was delighted to read on the boat, or on the sun loungers on the beach, and swim off the jetty. The weather was perfect the whole time.

Every morning at about 4.45 one of our neighbours takes her cows and sheep up to graze onthe hills. She brings them back at about 11 and out again at 5 and back at 8. This happens every day year in year out. After hearing her - I don't always but I like to - the muezzin calls at about 5.15am. At 6am the first bus toots to tell it's passengers its on its way. I hardly ever hear that. About 7 I like to get up, make coffe and sit in the cool sun in the middle of the garden and drink in the sunshine and peace of the early morning.